Dormant Oil
Winter oil, or dormant oil, is a mixture of phenol compounds and tars in an oily suspension.
The oils are formulated for killing the over-wintering eggs, nymphs or pupae of insects.
Dormant oil is, in effect, an insecticide applied in anticipation of a future pest infestation.
The oil is fairly effective in controlling: aphids, psyllids, scale insects and mealybugs.
Dormant oils are allowed under Toronto's new pesticide by-law.
Dormant oils must be not be applied outside of the plant's dormant season.
Basically, the should be applied during winter and early spring prior to bud-break.
The oils can harm sprouting buds.
They also can kill lichens and mosses.
They are mildly toxic to mammals.
They should be used as directed, and not in excess.
Herbicides
At the present time there are virtually no effective herbicides of botanical origin.
All herbicides that work sufficiently well, and are within basic safety parameters, are 'organic' compounds which are synthetic (i.e. manmade).
Glyphosate is a synthetic organic.
It is an herbicide that is relatively safe for animals, and very effective at killing plants.
Glyphosate
Glyphosate (N-phosphonomethyl glycine) is an complex compound which interferes with specific steps in the photosynthetic process.
It is absorbed systemically by plants, and if in sufficient dose, it kills the plants within 48 hours.
Glyphosate denatures on exposure to dirt, air and sunlight.
It does not persist in soils, and it is not suitable for sterilising soil.
Experimental evidence suggests that glyphosate is less toxic to animals, per unit dose, than are many other common household products.
Glyphosate is non-selective, it kills monocots and dicots with similar vigour.
Glyphosate is available in several formulations, under different trade-names: AquaNeat, Glyfos, Roundup and WipeOut, to name but a few.
2,4-D
Another common synthetic herbicide is 2,4-D (2,4-dichlorophenol).
It was part of the defoliant Agent Orange once used by the U.S. military.
Herbicides with 2,4-D as the active ingredient are more toxic to dicots than they are to monocots.
It does not easily kill turf grass, nor cereal crops.
However, 2,4-D does readily kill most 'broadleaf' weeds.
Experimental evidence indicates that 2,4-D is somewhat toxic to animals.
Acetic Acid
Acetic acid, i.e. vinegar, can be used to ‘burn’ plants.
A solution of 20 % to 50 % aqueous solution of vinegar makes a good broad-spectrum plant killer.
(Only the strongest solutions work in reality.)
The acid quickly neutralises in most soil types, hence it has little residual effect on soil pH.
Like glyphosate it can be spot-sprayed directly on the target weeds.
It is not quite as effective as glyphosate.
However, acetic acid is allowed under Toronto’s bylaws.
Calcium
This has been claimed that extra calcium can be used to suppress broadleaf weeds, and boost grass.
This has been exaggerated into the idea that calcium is some sort of ‘organic’ weed control.
Actually, extra calcium merely tends to give grass a competitive edge over some other weed species.
Calcium merely boosts the grass’s growth at the expense of some dicotyledonous weeds.
The boost only works as long as there is extra calcium for the grass to absorb.
To maintain the lush grass, one must re-apply calcium fertiliser year after year.
Weeding
Despite its relative safety, the City of Toronto includes glyphosate among the herbicides restricted under its by-law # 456-2003.
Herbicides containing 2,4-D are also to be restricted.
By the end of 2005, Toronto's gardeners shall need to rely more on manual weeding!
Weeding looks as if it is here to stay.
So why not make less work for yourself?
There are non-herbicide methods of reducing weeds in ornamental gardens:
A - Crowd out open soil by tightly planting flowers. Leave less room for weeds.
B - Plant tightly spaced perennials to crowd out weeds.
C - Use mulch to cover open areas, about 6 cm thick.
D - Ground-tarps, overlaid with mulch or gravel, can also restrict weeds.
E - Hire a gardener to waste your money on cultivating.
Cultivating Dirt
One does well to remember that ‘cultivating’ the soil is largely a mindless tradition.
Turning the upper layers of soil largely results in drying out the root zone.
In some soil types this accelerates in the leaching of potassium and other ions.
Furthermore, turning soil buries any weed seeds that might otherwise have died in the sunlight.
Turning bare soil is done mostly because it has long been expected of gardeners.
One could cultivate for a quick weeding, or for breaking up hard soil, or for initial flowerbed preparation.
In other words, not much cultivating needs to be done after spring.
It is better to crowd plants into the flowerbed than to waste precious hours turning bare soil.
This time could be better spent doing more productive things.
Peat Moss
If you must improve the soil, add and mix in top soil or compost.
Don't add peat moss unless the soil is extremely clayey.
Peat is not a fertiliser.
It is a porous material which does help to hold water in the soil.
If one has a loamy soil, adding peat is hardly necessary.
Natural sources of peat moss are becoming ever more scarce.
Peat builds up in bogs very slowly.
It is currently being mined much faster than it is being renewed.
Therefore, if one wants to conserve our natural resouces, boycott buying peat.
Fungicides
There are synthetic 'organic compounds' for controlling fungi.
Bupirimate, Captan and Carbenazim are just a few examples.
Currently there are no botanical fungicides that are good enough for general garden use.
Copper Fungicides
The safest fungicides are sulphur or copper based.
It is these inorganic fungicides which are to be allowed under Toronto's new pesticide by-law.
Copper oxychloride, and copper sulphate are fairly effective fungicides.
Copper sulphate mixed with ammonium hydroxide forms the ever popular Bordeaux Mixture, which is quite effective.
Copper based fungicides are useful as contact killers of growing fungi.
They are not so effective against fungal mycelia which have penetrated the plant tissue.
The element copper is fairly toxic to plants in high doses.
Copper based fungicides can harm plants if applied incorrectly.
(Some copper compounds can be toxic to mammals also.)
Also, fungicides in general must be applied during a 'windows of vulnerability', otherwise the fungicide may be ineffective.
Often when home owners notice a sign or symptom of a fungal disease, the damage to the plant has already been done.
Herbicide Damage
Sometimes one may notice odd symptoms affecting leaf or twig form.
These weird disorders cause curls in leaves, pockets in fruit, stunted twigs sometimes along with leaf yellowing or wilt.
‘Curl disorders’ are typically the symptoms of a virus infection.
However, if the symptoms afflict many plants of different species, one should suspect herbicide contamination as a possible cause.
Virus infections usually affect only a single species.
Herbicide poisoning is usually broad spectrum in its influence.
Residual effects of herbicides can adversely affect trees.
It often happens that urban trees are weaked or even killed by “weed & feed” type fertiliser / herbicide mixes.
These mixes contain a standard NPK fertiliser and also some 2,4-D for controlling ‘broadleaf weeds’.
Sometimes people think that a double or triple dose will kill even more weeds.
The excess 2,4-D can injure large broadleaf plants – i.e. trees.
This is especially likely after a rain.
Rainwater can move the herbicide into a tree’s root-zone.
(Occasionally rural gardens and lawns are damaged by herbicide drift from farms.)
2,4-D can cause series of disorders which could be mistaken for viral infections.
Glyphosate usually causes yellowing (chlorosis), wilt or death.
Often the symptoms of glyphosate damage occur nearest the side of the tree where the herbicide has been applied.
This herbicide sometimes kills whole stems of a shrub.
While less likely to kill a whole tree, glyphosate can kill saplings if the dose is high enough.
References
Blaustein, Andrew R. and Johnson, Pieter T.J.
2003.
Explaining Frog Deformities.
Scientific American. 288(2): 60-65.
Cranshaw, Whitney. 2004. Garden Insects of North America. Princeton University Press. Princeton.
Gribble, Gordon W. 2004.
Amazing Organohalogens.
American Scientist.
92 (4):
342-349.
Otto, Stella. 1993. The Backyard Orchardist. OttoGraphics. Maple City. 194-198.
Phillips, Kathryn. 1995. Tracking the Vanishing Frogs - an ecological mystery.
Penguin Books.
Rosset, Peter and Benjamin, Medea (Eds.) 1994.
The Greening of the Revolution - Cuba's experiment with organic agriculture.
Ocean Press. Melbourne. 33-50.
Royte, Elizabeth. 2003.
Transsexual Frogs.
Discover. 24(2): 46-53
Schultz, Warren. 1999. Natural Insect Control - the ecological gardener's guide to foiling pests.
Brooklyn Garden Inc. Brooklyn.